Sanitize Your Water
All hot tubs require the use of sanitizers and purifiers in order to keep the water clear and healthy. Sanitizers and purifiers are a substance that, when added to your water, kill bacteria and odor. Today, there a variety of different products that work to purify your spa water. The following information provides a short explanation of each of the sanitizing methods

• Mineral Based Purifiers. Mineral purifiers are based on mineral-bed technology, founded on breakthrough advances that recreate nature's own process of purifying water. It is, in effect, a two part system: a tubular structure is placed within the spa's filter, and then a non-chlorine/non-bromine activator is added to the spa's water before every use. There is no required maintenance when the spa is not in use, which makes it a very easy method to use. The cylinder shaped purifier that is placed within the filter only needs to be replaced every three to four months, or every time you drain your spa. Although it is not registered as a sanitizer, it is a highly effective purifier that easily meets the disinfection standards of the National Sanitation Foundation as well as the guidelines set by the EPA for bacteria in drinking water. Unless there is heavy usage of your spa, mineral based purifiers can eliminate the necessity to use bromine or chlorine on a regular basis in spas that are equipped with ozonators.

• Chlorine. Chlorine sodium dichlor is the most common chemical sanitizer used in hot tubs. Simply add 1-3 teaspoons of granulated chlorine into your hot tub every other day to maintain a chlorine level of 1-3 ppm (parts per million).
  Bromine Tablets. Bromine tablets are a combination of 70% sodium bromide and 30% chlorine. The tablets are inserted into a dispenser that floats in the water, providing continuous disinfection. Once you fill the hot tub with water, add 2 oz. of sodium bromide to activate the tablets. You must maintain a bromide residual reading at all times. If the reading drops to "0" from a lack of keeping the dispenser full, you must add an additional 2 oz. of sodium bromide.
  
• Two-Part Bromine. Above bromine tablets or chlorine, we feel that the two-part bromine system is the most effective way of purifying your water. However, it is not a very popular method due to the difficulty that many consumers have in adjusting to and becoming knowledgeable about its procedure. Once the method is learned, many people find the two-part bromine system the best way to sanitize their spa. The system consists of two ingredients: bromide liquid salts (sanitizer) and spa activator (activator). Bromide liquid salts is a water solution of sodium bromide which is the primary sanitizing agent for your spa. Spa activator is a granular based oxidizing agent that contains no bromine or chlorine, but activates the sanitizer.
  
  The bromide liquid salts must be added each week to maintain an available reserve of sanitizer ready to be activated. The spa activator must be added each time you leave the hot tub (or at minimum, once a week, if you do not use it) to activate the sanitizer. The system only uses up enough sanitizer to kill the existing bacteria, the remaining sanitizer is saved for future use.
  
• Baquanine. Baquanine is a hydrogen peroxide based chemical sanitizer that is very effective in killing bacteria. It is available under the name Baqua Spa and Soft Soak and is available in many hot tub retail stores.

• Alkalinity. Alkalinity measures the water's ability to neutralize acid and keep the pH level within the proper range. If the alkalinity is not within an acceptable range (between 100-150 parts per million), you will not be able to balance the pH. This is why you must test and adjust alkalinity before testing or adjusting the water's pH balance.
  
• pH. The pH level indicates the level of acidity in the water. The acceptable pH level must range between 7.2 - 7.8. Never enter your spa if the pH level is out of range, or you risk the possibility of skin and eye irritation.

• Clarifier. Clarifiers coagulate the bacteria, oils, and other organics that sanitizers cannot destroy in the water. In other words, the clarifier turns the liquid bacteria into a solid so that the filter can capture it. However, a problem with clarifiers is that much of the coagulated materials tend to gather on the shell surface, forming an unsightly "scum line" along the water line. This is why we strongly recommend the use of a natural enzyme product over the other types of clarifiers. A natural enzyme product breaks down the organics by converting them into a gas before they can interfere with the sanitizer's performance. Because it dissolves the organics as opposed to coagulating them, it helps to rid the shell of the "scum line". One product in particular called Natural & Clear has become a very popular natural enzyme product that clarifies the water and comes highly recommended.
  
• Stain & Scale Preventer. Stain and scale preventers help to control any staining or discoloring of the water caused by minerals. It also helps to prevent oxidizing and scale from forming on the shell's surface and/or any corrosion occurring to the heating element. Homes that use well water or water high in mineral content especially need to use stain and scale preventer on a regular basis to prevent mineral build up. However, as a safeguard, we recommend that all spas be treated with a stain and scale preventer once a week. It is an excellent safety measure, and in the long run will produce clearer water and will protect your spa.

The two most common water problems are foaming and soft water. The sections below explain each problem in detail:

Foam. There are three conditions that would cause foaming in your spa water: soft water, a high count of TDS, and/or soap residue from bathing suits, shampoo, body oils, and cosmetic products. If your water is soft with low hardness levels, see the section below. If there is a high count of TDS, you need to drain and refill your spa. If the foaming occurred due to soap or other residues, it is recommended to use a product designed to rid your spa of the residue, such as Foam Away.

Soft Water. Many areas of the country, especially those that have a municipal water source, tend to have soft water. Soft water may cause instant foaming and staining. Staining occurs because water has a natural demand for minerals. It attempts to satisfy this demand by garnishing minerals from other available sources such as heating elements, plumbing, etc. This corrosion is not only damaging to your equipment, but it also can stain your water and shell surface. All soft water should also be tested for hardness levels. An ideal level is between 100 - 200 ppm. Water hardness describes the total amount of calcium present in the water.